Thứ Sáu, 29 tháng 1, 2016

ASICS GT-1000 4 Review

The upper is still all sewn but the fabrics used are lighter and more flexible. The midsole remains unchanged and the fit is medium in the heel and mid foot while opening slightly in the toe box.
My test pair arrived in an understated but attractive silver black and blue color combination. My usual US size 10 fit was identical to last year’s.

ASICS GT-1000 4 General Info

ASICS GT-1000 4 - Lateral Side
ASICS GT-1000 4 – Lateral Side
For the fourth year in a row, Asics quietly packs a huge punch into the GT 1000 series. By utilizing older tech, Asics keeps the price point within reach and still provides a capable stability shoe.
For 2016, the GT 1000 keeps the same midsole but gets an improved upper and a slight reduction in weight. If you loved the older GT series, don’t miss this one.

ASICS GT-1000 4 Sole Unit

ASICS GT-1000 4 - Sole
ASICS GT-1000 4 – Sole
Asics uses some of their older materials to build the GT 1000 series which helps keep the cost down. The midsole of the GT 1000 4 is still founded on SpEVA foam which was Asics’s go-to foam before SoLyte.
It is a proven platform but it is heavier than SoLyte. Another veteran material is the Duomax which comprises the posting under the heel and arch of the shoe.
This denser foam gives further support to an over pronating foot by slowing down the inward roll that many runners experience.
Externally, we find the GT 1000 4 is built on an identical semi-curved last as was the GT 1000 3. Still present is carbon rubber at the heel for high-wear durability and softer blown rubber up front for enhanced cushioning.
The sole is tied together by a brilliantly designed mid foot shank that adds stability and resistance to torque. The shank replaces the former Space Trusstic system found on older GT 2000 series shoes.
Asics also carves its Guidance Line flex groove from heel to toe. Also present is Asics’s iconic GEL cushion and it is found in the lateral heel and provides for a soft landing and a more controlled medial roll.

Saucony Kinvara 7 Review

Saucony Kinvara 7 General Info

Saucony Kinvara 7 - Medial Side
Saucony Kinvara 7 – Medial Side
The $110 Kinvara 7 weighs in at 6.6oz for women (size 8) and 7.7oz for men (size 9) with 4mm heel-to-toe differential (18mm forefoot, 22mm heel.
The fit of version 7 remains unchanged from version 6 with an adequate, but not particularly wide toe box, and a snug midfoot feel. This version runs true to size.
The Kinvara 7 was tested on paved roads and groomed gravel trails. It performed well on long runs, quick tempos, and everything in between.
While several substantial changes in the shoe’s technology have been made, the general character of version 7 remains true to the Kinvara experience.

Saucony Kinvara 7 Sole Unit

Saucony Kinvara 7 - Sole
Saucony Kinvara 7 – Sole
Although the placement pattern has changed slightly, the Kinvara 7 continues to employ injection blown rubber in strategic zones on the sole in order to keep the weight of the shoe down while providing optimal durability and protection in areas where the highest ground contact occurs.
Strategic placement of injection blown rubber under the forefoot and along the lateral arch in the TRI-FLEX configuration provides traction and durability while distributing shock more evenly across the sole.
Saucony has replaced the PowerGrid EVA+ foam platform with resilient EverRun SSL that is significantly more dense and more firm than previous models.
EverRun is intended to maintain its integrity longer than standard EVA foam; and with its introduction, I expect version 7 to be the most durable Kinvara to date.
These changes have undoubtedly impacted the ride of the shoe. On my first run in the Kinvara 7, I felt a noticeable difference in the softness of the ride.
While the Kinvara 6 and earlier versions boasted a soft, luxurious ride, the Kinvara 7 is much more firm. The shoe feels as if the stack height is higher than in version 6, but it is exactly the same.
I attribute this feeling to the firmness. The Kinvara 7 is much less forgiving than the 6.
My first few runs in this shoe on the road felt quite stiff underfoot I could audibly hear my foot slap the pavement; a phenomenon I never experienced in the 6. Unlike the 6, the 7 requires a few miles of break-in before it starts to feel natural underfoot.

Saucony Kinvara 7 Upper Info

Saucony Kinvara 7 - Top
Saucony Kinvara 7 – Top
The upper of the Kinvara 7 carries over the two predominant technical features of version 6: FlexFilm and the Pro-Lock lacing system.
The FlexFilm overlays are melded to the upper of the shoe to eliminate seams. Flex Film stiffens the upper, but retains enough flexibility to be comfortable.
I have to admit, I was disappointed to see the Pro-Lock lacing system reappear in this version because I find it unnecessary and even constrictive.
The first time I wore the Kinvara 6 I had to stop 30 minutes into the run to loosen the laces and Pro-Lock pieces, which sit underneath the main upper unit, but on top of the tongue, because my foot had gone numb.
After experiencing this discomfort with version 6, I knew to keep the middle laces loose and thus avoided those problems with version 7. The upper of the Kinvara is snug as it is, and so the Pro-Lock lacing is unneeded.
However, this technical component persists, so for runners with a lower arch or wider foot, the overly-tight Pro-Lock system could cause significant discomfort.
Despite this issue, the toe-box of the Kinvara 7 was adequate as in previous models.The heel counter is soft and forgiving where it makes contact against the Achilles.

Brooks Launch 3 Review

Brooks Launch 3 General Info

Brooks Launch 3 - Top
Brooks Launch 3 – Top
When I first pulled these shoes out of the box I was impressed by the color scheme and design. The Launch 3 has a cool look.
This latest edition comes with an all new 3D print seamless upper which not only looks great but most importantly enhances the fit and the comfort. This was noticeable the first time I slipped them on.
With a low 7.9 oz weight and 10mm drop the Launch 3 gives a smoother and quicker feel than a standard Brooks trainer such as the Ghost, a shoe I wear regularly.
The forefoot and midfoot have been designed to optimize energy return while providing a cushiony feel.

Brooks Launch 3 Sole Unit

Brooks Launch 3 - Sole
Brooks Launch 3 – Sole
The sole of the Launch uses Brooks’ innovative BioMoGo DNA midsole.
Common among Brooks trainers, Brooks DNA uniquely offers cushioning that can adapt to the specific force placed on it, thus tailoring to each runner and his or her unique needs.
Combined with the BioMoGo midsole, you get this adaptive cushioning throughout the midsole versus just in the heel and forefoot. Runners will enjoy the smooth and soft ride these shoes provide.
The Launch 3 is unchanged in weight and drop from its predecessor, delivering a lightweight shoe at 7.9oz and a 10mm drop.
The sole uses technology specifically designed to provide higher energy return and smoother heel to toe transitions. That’s where I found this shoe stands apart from daily trainers.
You get ample cushioning along with a faster feeling ride. This particular model was updated with a new rubber outsole in the forefoot to provide for a more springy toe-off.
Also using a segmented crash pad for the midsole, the independent yet integrated shock absorbers work together to customize your foot’s lay down for just the right amount of cushion and seamless heel to toe transitions.
These shoes give ample cushioning coupled with quick, smooth transitions. They can handle both fast paced runs and longer high mileage training.
You get a responsive ride out of the Launch 3. While they feel fast most of the time, I did not enjoy these shoes on the track. The return they provided felt slow and cumbersome.

Brooks Launch 3 Upper Info

The Launch 3 was completely redesigned with a seamless and 3D printed upper for enhanced fit and comfort. This shoe feels great on your feet.
With a normal width foot, the shoe ran true to size. It hugs your foot providing a secure and snug feel, not too tight or too loose.
My complaint with Brooks Ghost model in the past has been a toe box which is too wide where your foot moves around too much. This is not an issue for the Launch 3.
The tongue of the shoe is also very soft and padded and was quite comfortable on the top of my foot and remained that way during runs.
The breathability of the Launch 3 is outstanding. Designed with a no sew mesh upperthis shoe leaves you cool and dry while providing a premium fit.
And for added bonus, this shoe has a great look. This model has 3 color schemes to pick from all offering a look different from other trainers.

Brooks Launch 3 Conclusions

Brooks Launch 3 - Heel

Thứ Năm, 28 tháng 1, 2016

ALLAN BAUDOIN MAKES A MEAN CHEALSEA BOOT!

Allan Baudoin

I am normally not a fan of the chelsea boot but the older and more lazy I get (and the more that I see them) the more that I am starting to like them. I have seen Allan Baudoin’s version a few times on Instagram and every time I do, I think that I like them more and more. That being, I thought that for those of you who are big fans of this particular boot model, I would share with you what I have come to appreciate which you just might love! Enjoy!
Sorry that I am not writing more but I am up to my eyeballs in sales shoes and getting them sent out. Will try and follow with more posts and the great things to come, as show at Pitti Uomo!
Allan BaudoinAllan BaudoinAllan BaudoinAllan Baudoin

CROCKETT & JONES AT PITTI UOMO 89

Crockett & Jones
Okay well I am about to commence my posts on what I saw at Pitti now that the sale is coming to a close and things are somewhat quieting down. So get ready for about 10 posts on that. I also wanted to reflect on 2015 which will be a long, dramatic post so also stay tuned for that if you want to hear the nitty gritty.
First up is Crockett & Jones who had some interesting things to say and see. The most interesting of news is the fact that they are implementing hand burnishing on a production level for their handgrade line as you can see here by all of the darkened toes and depth of coloring through the body.  They told me that they wanted to attempt the Italian way and see how people react to them. I thought that it looked quite nice and people do tend to like this type of stuff so I think that it will go well for them. And as it is hand burnishing (as opposed to heat burnishing) it is not as strong looking and will eventually fade away if someone is not too keen on it. It’s a win win really.
Crockett & JonesCrockett & JonesCrockett & JonesCrockett & JonesCrockett & Jones
Also in the line up were new colorways in existing models. The ones highlighted were the ones that I was particularly fond of, like the navy colored oxfords and the grained loafers in green (which were mind-blowing cool!).
I am sure you will all be excited to see these things in store, so stay tuned this S/S and A/W as these new products get launched.
Crockett & Jones

PAOLO SCAFORA AT PITTI UOMO 89

Paolo Scafora

Every Pitti Uomo I have my ritual of visiting the same shoemakers that present season after season. One of those makers is Paolo Scafora who in my mind is one of the most underrated shoemakers in the world, a great deal of which I believe is due to his wesbite that does not represent just how nice his shoes are. For those that don’t know, he has his own factory in Naples, specializes in hand coloring (as you can see) and makes shoes in just about every construction known to man. His welted shoes are all handwelted and hand lasted yet he uses a sole that you can bend in half like it was a pancake. But even with all of that under his belt you rarely hear of his shoes. I am hoping that will soon change.
Paolo ScaforaPaolo ScaforaPaolo ScaforaPaolo ScaforaPaolo ScaforaPaolo ScaforaPaolo ScaforaPaolo Scafora
Paolo really brought something new to the table this year as he really took pattern making to a new level with his mixture of suede incorporated into a body of calf as well as brogueing that all of the sudden stops where it would traditionally keep going. Needless to say it is all very unique and many of the pieces came out beautifully. I love this forward thinking too as it is really hard to come up with something that is truly unique. Well done Paolo!
While you won’t find a lot of shops that stock his shoes outside of Asia, you can always deal directly with the company on a MTO basis. Paolo is one of the nicest guys around and is very accommodating.  — info@paoloscaforanapoli.it —
Paolo ScaforaPaolo ScaforaPaolo ScaforaPaolo Scafora
Paolo in the background!
                                                                Paolo in the background!
Paolo ScaforaPaolo ScaforaPaolo ScaforaPaolo ScaforaPaolo Scafora

Thứ Năm, 14 tháng 1, 2016

GET FASHIONABLE WITH UGLY SHOES

fashionable-in-ugly-shoes
When the top designers were sending Birkenstock inspired shoes down the runway for about two seasons, you know it’s the time for the “ugly” shoes to be “it” shoes.
These “mandal” shoes, men’s inspired sandals with chunky leather straps, buckles and thick soles, are far from feminine, but it doesn’t matter for the fashion editors, as mandals end up on top of their wishlists of this summer.
“When my husband sees them, he says I’m lucky that we’re already married, but honestly I think it’s so much more sexy to be slightly underdressed, like you’re not trying too hard.” says Vogue Associate Accessories Editor Jorden Bickham.
Ansley sandals - chiko shoes
Elastic  leather sandals $99 at CHIKO Shoes
“They are probably out-selling high heels,” says Topshop buying director, Maddy Evans: “There is such an appetite.” It’s an appetite for comfort in this trend. These shoes are not the men’s favorite for women, but they do offer a lot of comfort, especially needed after walking around in those towering high heels of previous seasons.
Ansley-strap-sandals-facebook
The structure of these ugly sandals are very simple: Wide leather strap upper, Velcro closure, paired with orthopedic-like thick soles or molded sporty soles. They are ugly and chunky, but they look pretty cool with ladylike dresses or tailored pants. A fresh pedicure is a must with these shoes.
Dima – Leather Strap Sandals
Leather strap sandals $129 from CHIKO Shoes

Elisa-horse-hair-flats-chiko-shoes
Horse hair Espadrille flats $129 at CHIKO Shoes

SHOE TRENDS TO SHOP FOR SPRING SUMMER 2016 – FLATFORMS

2015-shoe-trend-flatform
It may feel like winter outside, but many stores are showing styles for spring 2015. Here are some tips and trends alert to help your wardrobe look clean and fresh for the new spring right around the corner.
What’s the best way to kick off your closet when temperature it’s getting warmer this spring? You might want to trade a pair of Chelsea boots for some flatform sandals or sneakers.
Look for flats and platform combined “flatforms” including sports influenced flats in fun colors. The perfect example: a pair from Roberto Cavalli:
Roberto-Cavalli-Spring-2015
Roberto-Cavalli-Spring-2015
Flats remain “a big thing” on the runway of spring summer 2015 and flatforms are emerging to be one of the main trends for spring summer 2015. Thick soles were featured on everything from sandals to sneakers.
Back from the ’90s with a cool style refresh, the retro-looking clunky flatform shoes have been quite popular among the young audience and repeatedly spotted on celebrities including Miley Cyrus, Katy Perry and Willow Smith. They make you look taller but without the discomfort of high heels.
The ultra-high towering flatforms are listed as the most dangerous shoes because the stiff sole structure makes them tricky and dangerous to walk especially on the uneven ground. You may want to break them in before wearing them out on the town for a long night. Choose low flatforms like Fendi’s if you are inexperienced.
Scroll down to see some of the best flatforms from fashion week spring summer 2015 catwalk.